All Chef Ought to Train Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Secures Fourth on List of London’s Leading Food Spots.

Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning names. But, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their modest shop achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.